Lake Superior: The World’s Best Playground

The birth of Minnesota’s North Shore was a dramatic fire and ice event – the end resulted in the world’s best playground. Stephanie Pearson, from Outside Online, discusses the Lake Superior area and writes: “All ­together it’s a giant, world-class playground for hiking, trail running, mountain biking, kayak­ing, sailing,

backcountry camping, and open-water swimming (for anyone crazy enough to try).” I would like to add agate-hunting, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, bird-watching, nature-photography, mountain climbing, canoeing, berry picking,

and fly-fishing to the list.

Eight state parks line the North Shore of Lake Superior in MN, ready for explorers. Each park has unique and magnificent natural wonders that really need to be experienced in order to fully appreciate them.

Because of the dramatic geological history of the Lake Superior area, much of the North Shore is wild, rugged, and left untouched. Cascading waterfalls awash viewers in a light mist,

deep gorges give the faint of heart butterflies in the stomach as I cling to a tree while others go to peer over the edge (wait, did I write “I”?), layers of pine needles on the trails feel soft underfoot and give off a sweet strawberry aroma, wild blueberries, raspberries, and thimble berries await the hungry hiker in late summer,

and bright colors of lichen adorn the ancient basalt bedrock that lines the lake. You may even catch a moose swimming in a backcountry wetland, bald eagles soaring over the cliffs, deer nibbling on spring growth, and trout darting under the overhangs in the many creeks and rivers that bubble and tumble into Lake Superior.

If you are one of those people who is crazy enough to slip into the icy waters of Lake Superior, you are in for an adventure.

Taking The Plunge

When you step into the frigid waters of Lake Superior, it takes mere seconds before your feet start to ache from the arctic water, and only a minute or so before your skin goes numb, thank goodness.

Although, at the numbing point you have to exercise caution, as the feet tend to stumble around as they try to navigate the slippery rocks underfoot. My family has had a yearly tradition of submersing ourselves in the icy waters. I swear, we are not crazy (okay, at least not all of us). This tradition is more of an “Okay, Lake. Give us all you’ve got. We can handle it!” kind of thing. We often have one or two people that slip due to numb feet – sending them splashing, ill-prepared into Lake Superior’s ice-bath. For some reason, those who are standing can’t help but laugh, but at the same time are thanking the Lord above that it wasn’t them – this time. We usually have curious on-lookers, who are most certainly happy they are still dry and warm where they watch, but can’t wait to see the reactions of the swimmers as they dive it. What does it feel like to dive in?

Walking out to the point where we submerge ourselves usually takes us at least five minutes. I don’t know why we take so long. It’s not like we ever really get used to the water. Our minds are probably stopping us. We don’t swim on days when the waves are large. No thank you! Here in MN, most of us don’t know how to handle those ocean-size waves – especially those that are near freezing temperature. The guys usually take a little longer to get used to the water (ahem), but usually stay out longer than the women. There is usually a 10-second count down to submersion. On zero, we dunk under. Our breath gets caught as the cold envelopes the our entire body. In seconds we explode out of the cold water. A few of the crazy ones stay to swim (I told you not all of us were crazy) for a few minutes – relishing in the cold, weightless, free-feeling of swimming. Everyone who emerges from the lake (we haven’t lost anyone yet) steps out with a smile on their face. If for only a minute or two, we bested the giant, frigid, vast lake. After stepping back onto the shore, we like to warm ourselves on the rocks. This always (yes, always) leads to agate hunting as we relish in the warmth of the rock.

Hunting The Not-So-Elusive Lake Superior Agate

Agates can be found in almost every country around the world, but the regions around Lake Superior are the only areas in the world containing the Lake Superior agate.

According the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR):

The Lake Superior agate differs from other agates found around the world in its rich red, orange, and yellow coloring. This color scheme is caused by the oxidation of iron. Iron leached from rocks provided the pigment that gives the gemstone its beautiful array of color. The concentration of iron and the amount of oxidation determine the color within or between an agate’s bands.

These agates can be found in much of Minnesota and into Northwest Wisconsin, as glacial movement spread agates with constant friction and movement throughout the ice age. What I believe is so special is that anyone can find agates in Minnesota. Agates are everywhere. Every time we go to the North Shore, my family brings home dozens of Lake Superior agates. Most of them are the size of dimes or quarters, and if we’re lucky, we may go home with silver-dollar sized rocks, but these are much more rare. All you need is to know what to look for when searching for the not-so-elusive agate.

The DNR goes on to provide a list of what to look for when searching for one of Minnesota’s state gemstones:

• Iron-oxide staining in shades of rust-red and yellow is found on most Lake Superior agates.
• Translucence allows light to penetrate the stone. Sunny days, especially early morning and late evening, are best for observing translucence as the sun rays shine through the stone.
• A glossy or waxy appearance, especially on a chipped or broken surface of a stone.
• A pitted texture often covers the surface of agates. This appearance is the result of knobs or projections from an initial layer of softer mineral matter deposited on the wall of the cavity in which the agate formed. These projections shaped the exterior of the agates as the layers of silicon dioxide formed inside of the cavity.

Agates can be found on the shores of Lake Superior, in rock pits, in riverbeds, on dirt roads, and anywhere else in MN where glaciers once roamed. Agate hunting is a great reason to get out and explore the hiking trails on the North Shore (although collecting rocks is not something that is allowed in the state or national parks).

Hundreds of Miles of Hiking Trails

Luckily, for nature lovers and explorers alike, the North Shore is rich in hiking trails to explore all that makes up the magnificent North Shore. The state and national parks offer many miles of hiking trails ranging from easy, paved, and accessible to difficult and rocky with many steps. One of the best hiking trails, in my humble opinion, is the Superior Hiking Trail.

Superior Hiking Trail

The Superior Hiking Trail (SHT) starts south of Duluth, MN at Jay Cooke State Park and winds northward for 43 miles until it reaches the city of Duluth – where the Lake Superior shore starts. This section of the trail is known as the Duluth section. The North Shore section of the trail starts in Duluth and follow’s Minnesota’s North Shore for 269 miles before it ends just before the Canadian border. This section follows the ridgeline overlooking Lake Superior, connects to many of the state park trails, and provides day hiking and backpack hiking opportunities with 93 backcountry campsites available.

Many visitors and tourists flock to the North Shore, especially during the summer months. Because of this, the state parks get very busy as they are all situated on State Highway 61, and very easy to access. Even in the summer months, The Superior Hiking Trail often feels like the trail-less-traveled when you hike the North Shore. There are many days where a hiker will not see another soul. And yet, the beauty awaits and surprises SHT hikers at every twist and turn.

The actual trails are only about 18″ wide, so the hiker truly does feel connected to nature. From sugar maples to red pines and yellow birch; and violets to blue-bead lily

and jewelweed – the flora is magnificent on the SHT from snow melt in the spring to snow cover in that late fall.

Because the trails are less populated, you are also more likely to see the amazing birds that frequent the area, black bears (be careful with your food), fox, beaver, and if you’re lucky, you may spot the elusive moose.

Last, but definitely not least, don’t shy away from hiking the trails in the off-season.

Off-Season Magic

Winter and early spring brings a fresh, new magic to the North Shore.

Towns that are usually bustling with tourists during the summer and fall months are now quiet and peaceful.

State parks that are often over-crowded are open and yearning for explorers. Trails are covered with snow that crunches underfoot and have a quiet serenity to them.

And, area waterfalls create captivating ice formations as the falling water freezes as it falls. I have yet to meet other hikers on the SHT during the winter, though snowshoe tracks tell me that I’m not the only one enjoying the cold, clean snow on the trails. Most trails are suitable for snowshoeing throughout the snowy months, but check before you head out cross-country skiing because some trails are too hilly and rocky for skis to navigate.

Don’t forget to explore the lakeside during the winter months too. Since the temperature of the water in Lake Superior stays pretty constant year-round, the lake rarely freezes. Because of this, the shores usually stay clear for winter agate hunting.

And, the splashing waves can make some pretty incredible ice sculptures during cold snaps when water droplets cling to boulders, twigs, and driftwood.

When early spring emerges from deep sleep, the North Shore is just as exciting! Bright green shoots of cold-hardy plants can be seen breaking through the snow pack. Spring wildflowers pop up. Waterfalls begin to rush full-force with the snow-melt rushing into the gorges from higher elevation. Ice on rivers begins to thin and breakup, providing fishermen the chance at an early-spring steelhead trout in the open waters.

And feeling the first warm breezes off the lake promises that warmer days are just around the corner.

Minnesota’s North Shore

Winter, spring, summer, and fall bring new and different opportunities to get outside and get into nature on Minnesota’s North Shore. The dramatic fire-and-ice geological events paved the way for an incredible year-round playground that everyone can enjoy.

Tiny snails on stones,

thick blankets of moss on bedrock,

trout in streams,

massive ship harbors,

stacks of stones,

stone turtles,

and old, abandoned fish houses await your arrival. So, pack up your hiking boots, guide books, agate hunting supplies, fly-rods, canoes, snowshoes, cameras, and swimsuits (if you dare) and come explore Minnesota’s North Shore – the world’s largest and best playground.