Calibrachoa (million bells), angelonia, dahlia, zinnia, geranium, petunia, coleus, and salvia greeted me each morning as I stepped inside the greenhouses I worked in throughout college. The smell as I entered my summer work space was intoxicating. I remember thinking how lucky I was to spend my summer days amongst the flowers with happy people. Yes, I swear that people who garden are some of the happiest people around. Anyway, it was during the summers at the greenhouse that I learned all about flowers, and the art of planting and designing mixed flower pots. Along with learning the names of annuals very quickly (the greenhouse I worked at specializes in annuals), I remember studying the mixed baskets that hung from the rafters, and the mixed pots that adorned each corner. You see, prior to working in the greenhouse, I was accustomed to seeing the traditional geranium pots with a spike plant coming out of the top. My parents had them at one time, my grandparents had them, and so did many other people around the neighborhood I lived in. Now, don’t get me wrong, geranium pots are beautiful! They add a pop of color to any sunny space they are put in, and those geranium flower heads are huge! But, as I studied the mixed pots in the greenhouses, I was captivated. Color combinations, textures, flower shape, and plant-height kept me studying, kept me interested, and ultimately inspired me. Today, one of my favorite jobs as a gardener is designing and planting mixed flower pots. I put together nine simple tips to utilize when designing a mixed flower pot. You can do it! Here they are: Light – Before picking out plants for your pot, make sure you know the amount of light your plants will be getting. This will tell you whether or not you need shade, part-shade/sun, or sun-tolerant plants. The mixed pot below was designed for shade as the flowers received only an hour or so of sunlight per day. Harmony and Contrast – Harmony is the likeness between plants; whereas contrast is the difference between plants. Characteristics include plant shape, height, texture, and color. In planting, harmony and contrast really do complement each other. For example, a harmony in flower color is more interesting if it links to contrasting texture. A deep red geranium flower will bring out the red color in coleus leaves, but the flower and leaf texture are completely different. Or, pairing the dainty Diamond Frost flower with a large, bold dahlia flower brings interest and sweetness to a pot. Balance – Bilateral symmetry in planting is where the arrangement of planting in one area is mirrored in another area creating balance. This does not necessarily mean that the exact plants must be planted on each side of a planter (although this will work), you can also achieve balance by using similar colors, similar textures, or similar heights on each side. Symmetry does not have to be side-to-side, it can also be achieved with height too. For instance, the tall, large dahlia flower will most-likely be the highest flower in the pot, and a balance of color can be achieved by placing red calibrachoa at the foot of the dahlia. This would be a high-low symmetry. Height – Choose plants that will give you interest at different heights. Using plants of all different heights (trailing, medium-sized, and tall) will provide interest at many different levels and give your planting depth. One of my favorite hacks when planting mixed pots is to use tropical plants. I have used jasmine plants in my mixed pots for many years now. I love the height of the jasmine plant, the dainty white flowers, and the beautiful, sweet aroma of the jasmine flower. Jasmine can also be over-wintered in the basement so I use it year after year. Saving money is always nice! Depth and Viewing Angles – Think about where your pot will be placed. If it will be on the porch up against the house, you may want to put the taller plants at the back of the pot. This will give you the entire front of the pot to fill in with medium and low plants providing a lot of depth and interest to the pot. However, if the pot is situated in the middle of a garden and can be seen from all angles, you probably want to put your taller plants in the middle and plant all the way around the taller plants for interest at every angle. Color – Choosing colors for a mixed pot can be the most enjoyable and daunting task all at the same time. Color combinations, house color, pot surroundings, and color preferences should all be considered when designing a pot. For instance, one of my favorite color combinations is coral and purple. However, no matter how nice the combination looked when I put the flowers together at the greenhouse, the coral would be lost against the orange bricks on my house. Also, when deciding on colors, keep the color wheel in mind. Complementary colors work very nice together in pots. Violet or blue flowers look beautiful with yellow flowers, and red flowers look great against green foliage. Arrange Before Planting – Fill the pot 2/3 of the way full with soil. Arrange the plants in their own pots before doing the final planting. This way you can see how the pot will look before planting to make sure the plant mixture looks right (you can also arrange plants on the cart in the greenhouse before buying to make sure you are buying the right flowers). Fill the pot! – One of the best things about container planting is that you can fill up the pot for instant fullness and beauty. Don’t plant a few small plants knowing that they will grow larger over the summer. Fill the pot with interest and color right away. If by chance a plant grows a little too large over the summer, trim it back! Sweet potato vine, for example,
DIY
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Chicken Coop With Run: Free Plans
On April 25, 2015 my husband and I packed up our kids and our dog, Brook (she travels with us wherever we go), and drove to pick up our very first one-day-old chicks. Our family had moved into our current house in the winter of 2012, and one of our goals before we even found our current house was to build our own chicken coop and raise some feathery friends in hopes that they would provide us with years of eggs in exchange for letting them happily roam our property. The previous winter had been consumed with researching everything chickens. We researched chicken breeds, chicken care, chicken books, chicken coops, and coop construction. After looking through many books and poring over many DIY chicken coop pages, we finally decided on our final coop and run design. I spent a week or so drawing up our coop plans before getting our supply list ready. Please click on picture to enlarge it. After gathering the materials we needed (well, most of them anyways as we ended up taking many trips to home improvement stores throughout the coop and run construction), we began constructing the frame of the coop. My parents had some extra 2×4’s in their barn (some of the 2×4’s were the boards my great-great-great-grandparents used to build their first house on the farm in 1884) so we were able to construct most of the frame using these boards. *See plans for board lengths. After leveling the ground, we placed four 18″ cement squares (one at each corner) on the soil and put the frame of the floor squarely on these stones. We decided to insulate the floor, so we used ground-rated, 3/4″ plywood on the bottom of the frame, stuffed some left-over insulation between the joists, used 3/4″ plywood on the top and finished it with a laminate remnant (for easy cleaning) before putting up the walls. I’m picturing a milkshake parlor right now, but I don’t think that would be too sanitary in our chicken coop. The framing for the coop and run went up next. The walls were raised on the coop, we attached the roofing boards, and we began to attach the framing of the run to the coop. We wanted the run to be attached to the coop so we could have one long run of roofing which provided continuous shelter for the chickens inside the coop and outside in their run. After leveling the ground where the run was going to sit, we partially buried ground-rated 6″x6″ boards on all three sides of the run. These boards were attached to the coop using 5″ screws at the base. We toe-nailed four screws on each 6″x6″ board at the point it attaches to the coop. We bought even longer screws (8″) to screw the 6″x6″ boards into each other on the two outside corners of the run. Finally, the joists were erected and a roof was added over the run. We screwed down 1/2″ plywood to the roof joists, stapled some tar paper down, and attached corrugated steel panels to the roof. We bought eight 3’X8′ corrugated steel panels and ran them from the east end of the coop all the way down to the west end of the run. We also decided to insulate the walls and ceiling of the coop since our chickens would have to endure our MN winters, so we added plywood to the inside of the coop first. The bottom 12″ of plywood is treated plywood so it won’t rot if it gets wet when we wash the floors. We used 1/2″ plywood on the walls and 1/4″ plywood on the ceiling. We stuffed insulation in-between the joists on the outside of the coop. Then, tongue-and-groove car siding was hung using a nail gun. The nail gun made the installation of the car siding very quick and easy. The most difficult part was fitting the car siding between the exposed roof joists, but with a little elbow grease (and our trusty jig saw), everything came together very nicely! I loved the look of the natural car siding, but we had our hearts set on a red coop with white trim.For our windows, we decided to install simple barn-sash windows. We wanted windows that could swing all the way open to allow for the maximum amount of air circulation. These windows were also much more inexpensive than the traditional windows we looked at. We paid $18 per window. Four windows were installed, two in the front of the coop and two in the back. After the windows went in, we painted the coop a brilliant autumn red. The kids really enjoyed helping me paint the trim on the windows white! We re-purposed a door that was originally in my great-great grandparent’s farm house (built in 1884). The nest box door is insulated so the hens (and eggs) can stay as comfortable as possible in all seasons. Finally, we put a large door on the west side of the run and added support boards between all of the run joists. We decided to make a 4′ door so we could get a wheelbarrow in and out of the run if needed. Also, we put a spring hinge on the door so the door would shut right behind us. Half-inch hardware cloth was stapled to all sides of the run. We also removed a couple of inches of soil from the bottom of the run and attached 1/4″ hardware cloth to all of the 6″x6″ boards and to the base of the coop to keep predators from digging up into the run. We put the soil back on top of the hardware cloth once the cloth was secured. Quarter-inch hardware cloth was also used on the inside of the windows and vents to keep predators out of the coop. A chicken door was attached to the coop using hinges at the bottom of the door, and we added 1″x1″x12″ pieces of wood every 2″ down