The drama is real on Minnesota’s North Shore! That’s what we call the shores of Lake Superior, here in Minnesota.
Jagged basalt cliffs, 25-foot waves in frigid waters, a lake that is so wide that the eye cannot see the other side, white birch trees among towering dark green pines, waterfalls that pound the earth sending never-ending trembles under your feet, hiking trails that meander for hundreds of miles – “It’s God’s Country.”, say the locals. I agree.
The dramatic aesthetic beauty of the North Shore keeps the locals there, and visitors coming back year after year. It’s true! I am one of those yearly visitors. The majestic surroundings on the North Shore teach us something new every time we visit, and they never cease to amaze us. But, we need to thank the dramatic geological history for the rugged beauty we experience today.
Fire and ice ravaged the area that is now Lake Superior and it’s surroundings.
Geological History
The Fiery Beginning
According to Dr. John C. Green, retired professor of geology at the University of Minnesota – Duluth, a plume of hot mantle rock arose under the Lake Superior area about 1.1 billion years ago. This was during the Proterozoic Eon which caused the Earth’s crust to stretch and erupt in huge basaltic lava flow. He writes:
But don’t think that this volcanic activity was similar to what we see in Hawaii today. Instead of lava dribbling and drooling down the flanks of large volcanic mountains, imagine huge fountains of intensely glowing lava spurting up from fissures that extended for miles across a barren plain. So much highly fluid lava would erupt in one event that it simply spread out, in many cases for hundreds, or even thousands of square miles, to form a huge, pancake-like lava flow.
Eventually, the flowing lava ceased to exist, but a blanket of basalt had been brought to the Earth’s surface. The basalt was so heavy that the rock began to sink, creating a basin. For a billion years, rivers brought sediment down into the basin as the basalt continued to settle. After stabilizing, the outskirts of the basin were left with jagged, thick mats of basalt, and the basin was filled with several miles of sediment. Dr. Green went on to explain that “…the stage had now been set for the final act of the geologic drama that produced Lake Superior.”
Ice Age
In the past 2 million years, continental glaciers (much larger than the typical alpine glacier) advanced and retreated over Minnesota several times. This caused massive erosion, especially in the basin where Lake Superior currently sits. The sediment that had been built up over the previous 1 billion years was easily eroded with the powerful friction of the moving glaciers. However, the edges of the basin, where the heavy basalt bedrock remained, were not easily eroded. Therefore, the mighty sheets of ice were responsible for the exact shape of Lake Superior today.
Jim Miller, Associate Professor, from the University of Minnesota – Duluth writes:
In the final retreat of the ice from the Lake Superior basin about 11,000 years ago, meltwaters filled the scoured-out sandy core of the rift. As the last glacier retreated west to east across the basin, meltwaters at times filled the lake to as high as 500 feet above the current level; at other times, water drained from the lake to levels about 250 feet below the present 600′ elevation.
Today, Lake Superior is the largest freshwater lake in the world – a lake that people flock to see.
Lake Superior
The Lake
My family and I live about two hours south of the shores of Lake Superior, and when we drive up, there is always a contest to see who can catch a glimpse of the lake first. There’s just something magical about driving up that last hill and finally seeing the vast waters of the lake.
Have you ever visited the ocean and been flooded with the feeling of being so small against something so large, a feeling of being powerless against something so powerful, a feeling of wonderment about all that is under the expansive surface of water? That’s the exact feeling I have when I sit beside Lake Superior. These incredible facts, thanks to the Minnesota Sea Grant, will give you a glimpse into why these feelings exist:
Lake Facts
Lake Superior is considered the world’s largest freshwater lake by surface area!
- Surface Area: 31,700 mi2 (82,100 km2):
The size of the state of Maine - Volume: Roughly 3-quadrillion gallons
(2,900 mi3 (12,100 km3)):
Enough to cover North and South America in one foot of water - Average Depth: 483 ft (147 m):
About the distance between Lake Superior and Duluth’s hilltop - Maximum Depth: 1,332 ft (406 m):
The same as one lap around a standard track - Length: 350 mi (560 km):
A drive from Two Harbors to Madison - Breadth: 160 mi (260 km):
A drive from Duluth to Minneapolis - Shoreline Length: 1,826 mi (2,938 km):
A drive from Duluth to Miami
The crystal-clear waters of Lake Superior have an average yearly temperature of 40F or 4C. The clear water, sometimes exceeding 75 ft. of visibility, is due to the glaciers carving out most of the soil. Because there is little soil, the lake-bed contains very few nutrients for plant-growth, and most of the bottom is just rock. According to Minnesota Sea Grant, some scientists refer to Lake Superior as “a distilled water ice-bath.” On the rare day that the lake is as calm as glass, viewing all of the colorful rocks on the bottom of the lake is a treat to the eyes.
When the water gets a little deeper, sometimes it takes on a cool, turquoise hue that you only expect to see in warm ocean waters. When a storm rolls in, the lake can change from a sleeping kitten with glassy waters to a raging tiger where 30-foot waves are common. As you can imagine, the lake can turn into a nightmare for those working the Superior waters.
See the next installment of my Lake Superior series here: Lake Superior: A Watery Graveyard
What an in teresting post. A HUGE! Post but with very beautiful pictures facts and figures. Personally I wouldn’t laugh at the people who slipped, in fear of devine retribution. Lake superior in all its glory I’d love to see, but, I wouldn’t get anywhere near any body of water that may induce laughter at my expence and I wouldn’t need to warm my bones on the rocks as I wouldn’t voluntarily dip my toe in the coldness in the first place. I love to look from inside the fishing huts, the turtle stones and the piles are pretty as is the Agate. The steel head Trout i would warm with butter lemon and garlic and chomp infront of a roaring fire.
Thanks for your comment, Ellen! Ha! You are correct. We all await our turn to slip and fall into that water. So far it hasn’t happened to me, but I imagine it may be a little easier than taking five minutes to slowly submerge. It’s almost like five minutes of torture. Oh my goodness, as I write this I wonder why exactly we have to do this every year. Peaking inside the fish houses is a lot of fun. My son always wishes he could take an antique or two home that he spies through the windows. Most of the houses remain untouched from when they were abandoned. Looking inside produces a sadness as we view old coffee tins on a table, fish nets tossed into the corner, and old books on the ground. And yes, I’m sure the trout would be excellent coming from the fresh, cold, North Shore streams. Thanks so much for reading. x
Gorgeous pictures! What an interesting place – so much to do and see.
Thanks so much, Ruth! The North Shore is like my second home.x
Yes the north shore is a awesome place to experience a little bit of every thing😀 and you dont have to leave Minnesota to get it all in ! You will never be bored with all you can do there😊
We have been going up there since we were children and bringing our children up there 🤗
We love the north shore! Erin awesome job on your blog of the north shore 👍
I bet those who read this will be taking a road trip
To see it for them self .👀
Thank you so much! It was hard to choose what to include in this post (hence the long length), but writing it was a lot of fun. The North Shore sure is a special place!
Looks absolutely divine – To see Lake Superior is now on my bucket list 😊
YES! You won’t regret it, trust me. 🙂 Thanks so much for taking the time (I know it was a long post) to read and comment! x
I’m so glad I came back to this post! I read it yesterday, but most of the pictures weren’t coming in. I meant to tell you, but I got so busy that it slipped my mind. But now, all the photos are present, and I am BLOWN AWAY! What an incredible place! I, personally, don’t think I would be able to deal with the cold waters (what can I say … I’m a wimp!), but I give you major props for being able to do it! I love all of the stacks of stones and the turtle stones. I will definitely be putting this on my bucket list! I always love reading your posts! 🙂
I’m so glad you came back too! The post is so long that it sometimes takes awhile to load. So, thank you so much for your patience! 🙂 The North Shore is an absolutely wonderful place to explore. I know you would love it. If you ever come up this way I’d be happy to guide you in the right direction. Yes, the stones on the shore are beautiful. I love sitting on the rocks and just looking out at the lake. I actually incorporated the stones into my wedding decor when I got married. 🙂 Thanks so much for your kind words!
Oh, and I bet you could handle the water. It may take awhile to build up the ‘guts’ to do it, but eventually you’d cave. It took me a few years, but now it’s a yearly tradition. And, I’m a freeze-baby. 🙂
I live on a island and could not live anywhere where I could not see and smell the ocean. I would think that being by the great lakes would feel similar.
It really does feel similar; however, that ocean smell is not here, unfortunately. The water in Lake Superior is so clear, and relatively low in oxygen, so there is not a lot of plant life in it – thus, no real smell. I do love the smell of the ocean though. We stayed on an island last winter, and as soon as we left, the entire family missed the smell of the ocean. <3
What a stunning place! I like how you included the facts and history about it as well. I’d love to see the Great Lakes some day. The idea that a lake can be so massive you can’t see to the other side is awe-inspiring! I also love how your family had contests about who would see the lake first. We did the exact same thing every summer on the way to our special slice of heaven ☺️
Well, if you ever need a guide if and when you make your way here – I’d love to show you around. 🙂
That would be awesome!!
The root of that evergreen tree is just extraordinary.
Isn’t it? Trees are some of my favorite things to photograph. Thanks for taking the time to read and comment, Hayley!
What a fantastic post! I love all the geological history that you included. That kind of information…I’m always looking at rocks to see how they might have got there in the first place!
Also, what a beeeautiful place! I can see why you’d want to visit! <3
Thanks, Josy! I love the stories rocks tell. I’m also happy that you enjoyed this post. If you ever get the chance, you should visit the North Shore – I know you would love it!
How badly do I want to be hiking there right now? Granted-the season isn’t quite right. I’d prefer more sunshine and less snow, but your pictures brought me right there.
The geoplogic history is interesting. Millions of years this place existed and it will be there when we’re all gone. There is something so humbling about that.
You and me both. I don’t think I’ve ever tired of being on the North Shore. In fact, I always feel a little sad when I leave.
As far as the geological change goes, I always wonder what the future will bring. Will the Earth open up again, or will the basalt cliffs stay where they are. Only time will tell. Thanks for your comment, Angela.
Beautiful, beautiful pictorial post x I learned a lot too. Stunning x
Thanks, Orla! It’s one of my favorite places to bring a camera. Photo opportunities are EVERYWHERE. 🙂
[…] Lake Superior attracts thousands of visitors from around the world each year. What many don’t see is how quickly the lake can transform from a sleeping kitten with glassy waters to a raging tiger with 30-foot waves when a storm blows in – a nightmare for those working the Superior waters. Hundreds of shipwrecks lay on the cold, dark, rocky bottom of Lake Superior. A haven for scuba divers, these shipwrecks lay preserved in the icy depths of the lake. The Lake Superior Visitor states: […]